Caterpillar Notes

Undercarriage-

Jack up the back of the side you working on and lower onto stands

Use the bucket to raise the front and lower onto stand.

Remove Track-

Remove the front outside wheel and track-
	loosen the lock nut on the turnbuckle tightener and loosen the turnbuckle taking note of the number of exposed 	
	threads for reassembly later.

	Remove the retaining ring-  old style, use a small screwdriver under the recess and go around
	remove the nut
	raise the bucket-use the safety prop
	use large gallagher sledge an0d hit the front of the track inside out-the wheel will come off. You can try to 	
	save the seal by putting the nut back on loosely and knocking it off as far as it will go.
	pull the track the rest of the way off

The front and rear bearing and seal kits are the same.

Replace bad wheels with new aluminum wheels

Rebuild bearings with the kit from Trackloaderparts.com

The wheels just tap off with a hammer.

Remove inside retaining ring

remove seal and tap out outer races of bearings

I used 95 foot lbs for the old style wheels.  The new aluminum ones have their own instructions. 

The 1" pivot bolt in the rear with the 1 1/2" head of the drive may be seized.  Try running the drive up and down a few times with the turnbuckle and applying PB blaster.

Try to get the drive in a good position so that the pivot bolt is not in a bind.

Use anti seize when you reassemble the pivot bolt.

You can cut it out with slicer wheels on a grinder then hammer it out of the holes. Use a short piece of steel with a 3/8 hole in it and drill to 3/8 in the stuck bold.  That will keep it lined up so you can hit it with Gallagher.

Track goes back on rear first.  Grease the front wheel and track where it rides.  Hammer it on partially.  Now the fun. Put the front outside wheel on. Make sure the spacer is on the shoulder of the shaft and doesn't fall down!  No spacer for the aluminum wheels. Lever, pry, jack etc until it lines up and hammer it home.  Watch the seal! I used the hydraulic ram spreader attachment and a crow bar.  I also lowered the vehicle and tightened the track by running forward and back, then lifted the front off the ground.  To get the wheel completely on, I had to run the track around a little.  Put some wooden blocks under the tread to take up the slack.